Athens: An overlooked gem in the Mediterranean

Athens, a city where Western philosophy and gods coexist, is surrounded by the sparkling, gem-like waters of the Aegean Sea. Named after the goddess Athena, it holds an indelible place in history and is a city built upon cultural relics.

Today, Greece's top travel destination seems to be Santorini, known for its striking blue and white visual impact and as a honeymoon paradise. As an overlooked gem, Athens doesn’t appear to be a “worthy” city to deeply explore in many travel agencies’ plans, but I do not share this view.

From a certain point, my travels often stem from whimsy, and I mostly travel alone. Among countless trips, Greece happened to be the destination of my first solo trip abroad. A short visa and a tight flight schedule weren’t enough for me to travel to multiple cities, and rather than skimming the surface, I prefer to deeply understand a new city. Its character and culture are not simply captured in words, nor do they entirely match those of its country. If I were to describe it, Athens is a city of mystery, where history and culture weigh heavily, though somewhat dilapidated, it still contains a young and passionate soul expecting nirvana.

The daytime of June in Athens can be torturous due to the unusually high temperatures, making sun protection paramount. The extreme heat makes the white land more prominent, forming a unique Mediterranean visual feast when contrasted with the azure sea. The white and blue are so clean that they allow me to ignore the hustle and bustle.

Walking in the city requires some courage because the scorching sun can easily cause dehydration and dizziness, but the various shops along the streets are always open as cool havens. Street snacks like Souvlaki paired with the Greek version of Fanta, Loux, make for an excellent quick meal to gain energy. Many bougainvillaea flowers bloom on balconies or in corners, their bright magenta always making a striking impression against white walls.

Although most young people speak some English, easing my anxiety in a completely unfamiliar country, taking the red double-decker Citysightseeing bus is a wise choice for a traveller. In about an hour, you can effortlessly see Athens' main historical sites with narration in your native language and learn their stories. Compared to just visiting a desolate ruin and glancing at it briefly, this suits my short itinerary better. The most outstanding part of the commentary for me was that Greek mythology and philosophy were created with humans as the central theme. The combination and presentation of divinity and humanity differ from what I had previously encountered, in which I started to reflect on what I have bared in mind.

After a round trip, the new and cool Acropolis Museum is the best destination in the hottest afternoon hours. Even though the museum which was built to prove the eligibility of taking back their relics is not large, the Acropolis Museum tells the history of Athens, the origins of philosophy and mythology, and holds precious relics of ancient civilizations. Spending three hours there leaves one wanting more and serves as the best introduction to the Acropolis. Climbing the Acropolis afterwards allows for a deeper understanding and appreciation. The temples are already in ruins, and even if they are under restoration, it’s hard to restore their former grandeur. The lost glory is but a brief chapter in history. However, when overlooking Athens from the mountaintop, one can still glimpse the lofty status and significance it holds for the Greeks. The temple, standing closest to the sun, gazes down upon all beings.

At dusk, the swirling dust casts an unreal hue over the sky and earth, turning the colourful sunset into a dreamy blur, like a watercolour painting. As the light sinks below the sea horizon, the city's twinkling lights take over the stage in the darkness.

The night in Athens is also unique, both tranquil and bustling. Greeks love life, living freely and passionately. A driver I met told me that even without much money, Greece is a place where love can make countless people linger.

The fried seafood and seasonal wild vegetables for dinner ignited my "love for food." Compared to other European countries or the UK, prices in Athens are very reasonable. Not only are they inexpensive and good quality, but the portions also far exceed expectations. Besides desserts and street snacks that come in single servings, in my view, a main dish here is equivalent to a two-person serving for women. Before ordering, rather than relying on translations and Google’s blind search without fully understanding, it’s always a good idea to ask the friendly waiters. For instance, I unknowingly ordered a large bowl of boiled wild vegetables (Greek Greens). Although it was a taste I had never tried before and very freshly boiled with olive oil dressing with lemon, the portion size truly embarrassed me. After trying my best, I only managed to finish about a third, while the remaining vegetables still towered above the rim of the bowl. Of course, I can't deny that my deeper love for fried seafood played a part in this. The baby octopus is covered by a very well-prepared flour coat, crispy and tasty, embracing the high-quality soft and chewy baby octopus. That's the perfect fried seafood that can be imagined. 

In the Plaka district of the city centre, originally an industrial area, it has now become a famous tourist spot, with many homestays, hotels, and bars. Even on weekdays, most businesses don’t close until two or three in the morning. Walking through some bustling streets late at night, I was greeted by empty alleys and ruins with personality-filled graffiti. Few people passed by, and the dim streetlights revealed a highly polarized society. It can be the decadent luxury of Michelin-starred restaurants and high-end shopping streets, or the chaotic seafood and spice markets in the central area, abandoned dilapidated buildings, and the smoke and ordinariness of the streets.

Since I wanted to escape the usual itinerary, I chose to stay far from the city centre, at the port. Piraeus Port, which I described to friends as the Santa Monica of Los Angeles, is like a suburban location but still within range. As a European port, it’s trying to become a bustling new area. Besides the port for shipping, there is a small crescent-shaped port for private yachts. Dozens of restaurants and bars stand along the coast, and from below, most of the buildings are residential with some homestays. This location highlights Greek characteristics to the fullest, or maybe it’s just my stereotype of Greece. When night falls, each store plays different styles of music. The swaying waves carry sailboats in the wind, and the moonlight reflects on the sails. It’s night, yet still bright. Groups of young men and women chat in groups, and though I travelled alone, I didn’t feel lonely.

How to describe the Mediterranean Sea?

By day, it’s a mirror of the sky; by night, it’s a glowing black diamond. Quiet yet never stopping its dark surges.

Not seeing the famous jelly-like seawater always left me with some regret. Therefore, on the morning I was to leave Greece, I made a bold decision: to board a ferry to the nearest island within the limited time—maybe I could make it? I didn’t know where that persistence came from, but I boarded the boat despite understanding the risks.

I stubbornly kept searching for “my island”; perhaps that’s why I wanted to take the adventure, or maybe it’s what we often say, “since I’m here.”

As if blessed by the heavens, I unexpectedly arrived at an unplanned but time-manageable small island, though I thought my subsequent itinerary would be affected. As expected, the seawater was clear and transparent, with stones clearly visible and many sea urchins growing near the shore, within reach. The water’s texture felt like the finest silk flowing through my fingers, looking like a giant, trembling jelly, incredibly enticing. If possible, I felt I could watch such a beautiful sea forever. Sitting on a seaside bench under the Mediterranean pine, mythologically referred to as the “tree connecting heaven and earth,” I watched the sailboats and yachts rise and fall with the waves. It seemed as if this carefree feeling could carry away all my thoughts, leaving only the boundless, pure sea.

In just an hour, I boarded the return boat, but nothing was more worthwhile.

I came hurriedly and left stumbling, but in just a few days, my heart felt repaired, and more peaceful. I lingered, reluctant to leave, and looked forward to the next reunion, to explore more untouched corners that had already planted a sense of anticipation in my heart.

Recommendations:

1. Alantikos

2. Stani

3. LIONDI

4. The Clumsies